Most kitchen design problems come from missing information, not bad taste. A window that's 2 in lower than someone assumed. A refrigerator that's deeper than the cabinets around it. A dishwasher that doesn't fit the sink run. This guide walks you through what to collect, in order, so your design starts from facts.
Step 1: Measure the room
Sketch a rough floor plan, then measure every wall in inches, left to right. Note the location and size of each window and door, including how far each one sits from the floor and from the nearest corner. The measuring guide covers the details.
- Windows: width, height, distance from floor to the bottom of the sill, and trim width.
- Doors and openings: width, height and which way each door swings.
- Fixed utilities: centerline of the sink drain and water lines, gas line, electrical outlets, vents and radiators.
- Obstacles: bulkheads, beams, columns or pipes that cut into the space.
Step 2: Check the ceiling
Measure ceiling height in several spots; it's rarely perfectly even. Note whether the ceiling is flat or vaulted, and whether there's a soffit. If there is, record its height and depth and decide whether it stays. The answers drive your wall cabinet height and trim. For 8 ft ceilings, see designing for 8 ft ceilings.
Step 3: Lock in your appliances
Cabinets are built around appliances, not the other way round. Before the layout is final, write down the brand, model and exact width, height and depth of each one.
- Range or cooktop, plus wall oven(s) if separate
- Range hood (and whether it vents outside)
- Microwave: countertop, drawer, over-the-range or built-in with trim kit
- Refrigerator, and whether it is counter-depth or standard-depth
- Dishwasher
- Anything else: wine fridge, beverage center, second oven
Tip
Counter-depth vs. standard-depth
A standard-depth refrigerator sticks out several inches past 24 in base cabinets. A counter-depth model sits nearly flush. Decide early: it changes the cabinet around the fridge and the feel of the whole run.
Step 4: Plan the sink
Pick the sink type early: drop-in, undermount or apron-front (farmhouse). Each needs a different sink base and countertop cutout. Farmhouse sinks in particular need their exact size known before the cabinet is chosen.
Step 5: Map your work zones
Arrange the kitchen around what happens in it: storage (fridge and pantry), prep, cooking, cleanup and serving. Keep prep close to both the sink and the range, and keep through-traffic out of the cook's path. The standard kitchen dimensions tell you how much space each zone needs.
Step 6: Choose construction and style
- Construction: framed, frameless, or undecided (a designer can help you choose).
- Primary door style and finish: shaker, slab, raised panel and so on.
- Accent finish: many kitchens use a second color on the island or a hutch.
Step 7: List the storage you want
Walk through how you cook and what you own, then pick features to match. Common requests:
- Soft-close doors and drawers
- Wide, deep drawers for pots and pans
- Roll-out trays in base cabinets
- Pull-out trash and recycling
- Spice pull-out and cutlery dividers
- Lazy susan or blind-corner organizer
- Wine storage, plate rack or open shelves
- Glass doors to display dishes
Step 8: Finishing details and lighting
Decide on crown molding (and whether it runs to the ceiling), light rail molding under the wall cabinets, base molding on islands and decorative end panels. Plan lighting in layers: overhead general light, under-cabinet task light over the counters, and a pendant or two over the island.
Good to know
Under-cabinet lighting needs planning
Light rail molding hides under-cabinet fixtures, but the wiring has to be roughed in before the walls are closed. Tell your electrician early.
Once you have this list, you're ready to design. Build a first version yourself in the Prontto planner, or bring your notes to a designer.