Farmhouse sinks (also called apron-front sinks) bring a deep, generous basin and an exposed front panel that anchors a traditional or transitional kitchen. They're also different from other sinks in one important way: the cabinet carries them, not the countertop.
How farmhouse sinks differ
| Drop-in | Undermount | Farmhouse / apron-front | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sits | On top of the countertop | Under the countertop | Under the countertop, front exposed |
| Supported by | Countertop rim | Countertop + clips/brackets | Sink base cabinet + added supports |
| Cabinet | Standard sink base | Standard sink base | Farm sink base with open or cut front |
| Sink needed before cabinet? | Helpful | Helpful | Yes, essential |
Good to know
Weight matters
Fireclay and cast iron farmhouse sinks can be very heavy before they're filled with water and dishes. The support structure below needs to be planned for that load.
Step 1: Choose the sink first
Pick the exact sink before ordering the cabinet. Handmade fireclay, cast iron and copper sinks can vary a little from their listed size, so work from the spec sheet and, ideally, the sink itself.
A good rule: choose a sink about 3 in narrower than the cabinet. That leaves a strip of cabinet on each side of the apron, which frames the sink and hides small size variations. If you want a sink as wide as the cabinet, add a narrow filler or panel on one or both sides to create that frame. This is especially useful next to a dishwasher so there's no visible gap.
- Common sink widths
- 30, 33, 36 in
- Suggested cabinet
- Sink + ~3 in
- e.g. 33 in sink in a 36 in base
- Base cabinet depth
- 24 in
- Apron height
- about 8–10 in
- Varies by sink
Step 2: Cut the cabinet front to fit
Many farm sink bases arrive with a front that is meant to be trimmed on site. With the sink in hand, measure its apron width and height, transfer those measurements to the top of the cabinet front and cut the opening (typically with a jigsaw). Cut a little snug at first; you can always take off more.
Tip
Mind the doors
The bottom of the apron should sit just above the cabinet doors, with enough clearance that they open freely. Check this with the sink resting in place before anything is fastened.
Step 3: Build support underneath
The cabinet sides alone usually aren't enough. Installers typically add a support frame inside the base, often 2x4 cleats fastened along both side walls, or a cross-support platform, set at the exact height that puts the sink rim where the countertop will be. Follow the sink maker's instructions if they specify a support method.
Step 4: Set, level and seal
- Set the sink on the supports and check that it is level side to side and front to back. Shim as needed.
- Decide how far the apron projects. Many installs have it stand slightly proud of the cabinet face so it lines up with the countertop edge.
- Confirm the countertop fabricator has the final sink position before templating.
- Once the placement is right, secure and seal the sink with silicone.
Myth vs. fact
Myth: any sink base works for a farmhouse sink
A standard sink base has a full-height face or false drawer front where the apron needs to go. You need a farm sink base (or a properly modified one) plus internal supports.
Planning a new sink wall? Map the sink, dishwasher and landing space together in the Prontto planner, and check the kitchen dimensions guide for clearances.